Splash!

Today's the day she splashes!

Very anxious to test out the new prop & shaft. Hopefully this has solved the vibration issues I was experiencing. If not then it must be an alignment issue.

Few things left to do once she's in the water

• Rebed the hood over the companion way - repair core as necessary. While I've got the Lifecaulk out - I'll run a bead along some potential problem areas
• Install new stripe
• Rebuild head
• Install Spartite mast wedge replacement
• Install new rigid vang - Garhauer
• Teak (if dockside continues to blow me off)
• Install cockpit table

Built new cockpit table

The cockpit table that was on the boat was rotting on one corner - so I decided to make a new one.

I used some scrap teak and holly from the new floorboards I had made along with some maogony strips that I had left over from the P30 resotration project. This wasn't a difficult project but it sure looks better than the old table.

Materials
1 Pc - Teak and holly - XX X YY X ZZ
4 pcs - mahogony strips
8 SS screws - #6 X 1"
8 Teak plugs 5/8"

1. Cut the teak & holly to XX X YY
2. Using a router table - round off the top 1/4" of the mahogony strips
3. Cut the strips to length. Cut the short pieces first to be flush with the end of the T&H. Then cut the long pieces so that they are long enough to cover the ends of the short pieces.
4. Cut 45 degree angles on the ends of the mahogony - begin ZZ" up from the bottom - so that your 45's end right at the table surface. On the long pieces you'll need to notch in by ZZ before you begin the 45.
5. Now with all pieces cut assemble the table. Drill pilot holes for all the screws in the mahogony strips. Then drill counter sink holes to accomodate your teak plugs. Be careful not to drill in too far with your counter sink holes.
6. Once assembled - check all the corners and sand any rough endges as necessary. When you are satisfied with the fit of everything - disassemble.
7. Sand the table surface with 220 - clean with mineral sprits
8. Apply a small bead of glue along the edge of the table and reassemble the edges. Use clamps for the corners to be sure to get a good bond. Let dry overnight
9. Now you're ready to finish the table. I used a mahogony stain on the back side to get the color right. Once this was done - use the finish of your choice
10. Reinstall the hardware and you're done!

Things I can't forget to do

These are just little things that i dont want to forget to do before launching....

1) Adjust dripless shaft seal to 1" compression of bellows.
2) Tighten hose clamp on head raw water intake
3) Re-cut thread and replace forward set screw on cutlass bearing
4) FSR -stain on transom near drain

Ok - feel much better now!

Wax On ..... Wax Off

Unlike last spring - the weather has been SOO cooperative - two beautiful sunny days with highs breaking 60!

Saturday I washed the boat with Simple Green and started the buffing process. Used Maguire's High Gloss Polish (#45). Applied with a buffing wheel. I did each section 2 times. Applied the polish, wiped off the excess and repeated, then moved the ladders. I spent 3 hrs on Sat buffing and completed the starboard side and the transom.

On Sunday I completed buffing the port side (about 2.5hrs work) and started waxing. I elected to apply the wax (Maguire's No. 56 Pure Wax) by hand. The entire wax job (port and starboard) took about 3 hours.

One tip - with the boat facing East-West, and working after noon. I should have worked from West to East so that I was not constantly looking into the sun. It also would make it easier to see which areas have been completed and to spot missed spots.